You might know this as hardwood floor refinishing. Same work, either name. We sand and refinish hardwood floors, repair damaged boards, and match new work to what is already down. Stain and sheen are chosen on your floor, not from a brochure, because the same colour reads differently on different wood.
Before anything, how much wood sits above the tongue gets checked, usually at a vent cut or threshold. That determines whether a full sand is even available to you.
Split, cupped, or rotted boards are replaced and nails set below the surface. New boards are woven into the existing pattern rather than patched in a block where possible.
Multiple passes with progressively finer abrasive, using a large belt or drum machine in the field and an edger at the perimeter, then blending the two so the edge does not read differently.
Modern dustless systems vacuum at the machine to a sealed container outside. It is not literally dust-free but it is the difference between a light film and weeks of fine grit throughout the house.
If the color is changing, stain is applied and given full dry time, then a sealer. Water popping is sometimes used first to open the grain for a more even, deeper color take.
Two to three coats of polyurethane, waterborne finish, or a penetrating hardwax oil, with a light abrasion between coats so each bonds to the last.
If you are seeing any of this, call us before it gets more expensive.
| What you are seeing | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Scratches you can feel with a fingernail | Damage is in the wood; a recoat will not remove it |
| Floor dull but smooth to the touch | Finish wear only; a screen and recoat is enough |
| Boards cupped or crowned across their width | Moisture problem; fix the source before any sanding |
| Gray or black staining around pet areas | Urine has penetrated the wood; may need board replacement |
Wear layer, board condition, subfloor soundness and moisture content are checked. Sanding and finishing a floor that is still wet from a leak locks the problem in.
Furniture out, base shoe removed if the edges are being taken tight, vents covered, and doorways sealed with plastic and zippers to keep dust out of the rest of the house.
Coarse grit to flatten and remove old finish, then successively finer passes. The edger handles the perimeter and the two have to be blended, which is where skill shows.
Applied and wiped back consistently, then given full manufacturer dry time. Rushing this is the most common cause of a finish that will not cure or that lifts later.
Two to three coats with light abrasion between. You can usually walk on it in a day or two in socks, but furniture and rugs wait considerably longer while the finish reaches full hardness.